Jun. 5th, 2007

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Kulfi is the best ice-cream in the world. And if an Italian tells you so, man, you'd better believe it. Drawing on the Indian talent with spices, herbs and flavourings of every kind, it has a variety of powerful yet subtle flavours generally based on pistachio and saffron. Kulfi, I tell you, is the Kaisar-i-Hind of ice creams.

Word has come through, evidently, to Tesco, Britain's largest retailer. They decided to create a Westernized line of kulfi ice creams, keeping the flavour, but presenting in the local guise - on a stick. And they do seem to have really gone to town with it. They must have got an excellent recipe, for the ice-cream itself tasted just like it should.

Only they coated it with chocolate, which has absolutely nothing to do with it, and whose taste is killed and neutralized by the kulfi flavour. Because, you see, ice cream on a stick in Britain always has to be coated. Never mind whether it ruins the whole idea.

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